Part 2 - Harvesting Matcha: Selecting the Finest Leaves

Hand-picking and scissor harvesting

The harvesting methods for tencha, the raw material of matcha, are broadly divided into two types: “hand-picking” and “scissor harvesting.”

Hand-picking, as the term suggests, is a method in which new buds are carefully plucked by hand while visually inspecting them, producing tencha of superior quality.

Scissor harvesting is a general term that encompasses a wide range of tools and machines, from hand-held shears similar to those used for pruning garden trees to large ride-on machines. Details will be described later.

Although “scissor harvesting” now accounts for the majority of harvesting methods across Japan, in traditional Uji tea production areas that produce only first-flush tea, hand-picking is still practiced. It may come as a surprise that hand-picking continues to exist in Japan, where labor costs are high.

Regions for hand-picking and scissor harvesting

It is difficult to identify the exact proportion of hand-picked first-flush tea, but it is estimated to be in the range of several tens of tons. Considering that the total amount of first-flush tea produced in Kyoto Prefecture is about 600 tons, there is no doubt that hand-picking is quite rare.

The prevalence of hand-picking or scissor harvesting differs significantly depending on the tencha leaf production area (municipality) within Uji.

Regions where hand-picking is carried out are Uji City, Jōyō City, Kyōtanabe City, and others. These areas are located near urban districts, where many small and medium-sized tea farmers cultivate tea in relatively flat tea gardens.

In these regions, many tea farmers specialize exclusively in producing first-flush tencha of particularly high quality, which are traded at premium prices.

On the other hand, regions where scissor harvesting is predominant include Wazuka Town, Minamiyamashiro Village, Ujitawara Town, and Kizugawa City.

In these areas, not only first-flush but also second-flush tencha are harvested. Many tea farmers manage large- or medium-scale tea gardens, and while they also prioritize quality, their production volumes are high.

Thus, harvesting methods differ depending on regional characteristics, the size of tea gardens, and the length of the harvesting season.

Hand-picking

Hand-picking refers to harvesting first-flush tea by hand to produce high-quality tencha. Since the leaves are carefully plucked, the raw leaf quality is excellent, although harvesting efficiency is low.

Hand-picking methods are generally classified into three types: “one bud and two leaves picking,” “breaking picking,” and “stripping picking.”

One bud and two leaves picking

This method involves picking only the apical bud and the two leaves directly below it—the “one bud and two leaves.” It is the most meticulous method, but labor costs are very high, so it is not used for matcha (tencha) intended for ordinary consumption. It is used for tea leaf competitions or for special tea ceremonies.

Breaking picking

The stem is pinched between the thumb and forefinger, and four to five leaves along with the stem are broken off. Since the leaves remain intact, this method causes less damage compared with “stripping picking,” and it is widely used for hand-picking tencha in Uji.

Stripping picking

The lower part of the stem is held between the thumb and forefinger, and the leaves are stripped upward with force. The advantage of this method is that hard stems are left behind and only leaves and soft stems are harvested. However, because the picking motion is rough, the leaves are more prone to damage, which can degrade quality. It can also cause damage to the hands. This method is also called “koki picking.”

Choosing between “breaking picking,” which allows careful handling of the leaves, and “stripping picking,” which reduces stem inclusion, involves trade-offs. The choice depends on each tea farmer’s preference, but in Uji, most hand-picked harvesting uses the “breaking picking” method.

Hand-picking requires time and labor, but it allows for easier selection of only the most desirable parts for high-quality tencha. This enhances the smoothness and flavor of matcha. The refined taste of high-quality matcha ****enjoyed in the tea ceremony is quietly enriched by this painstaking harvesting work.

Scissor harvesting

Scissor harvesting is a method of plucking fresh leaves using manual shears or machines equipped with blades. The term “scissor” covers a wide range—from hand shears similar to pruning scissors to ride-on machines operated by a person. Essentially, it refers to harvesting methods that use cutting blades.

In production regions where scissor harvesting is predominant, second-flush tencha are also cultivated. Because of the large volume of leaves harvested, scissor harvesting becomes a practical necessity.

Scissor harvesting can be further categorized into “hand shears harvesting,” “mechanical harvesting (small harvesters, portable harvesters, self-propelled harvesters, rail-guided harvesters),” and “ride-on harvesters.”

Here, the types used for tencha leaf harvesting—“hand shears,” “portable harvesters,” and “ride-on harvesters”—are described.

Hand shears

This method uses hand-held scissors. Nowadays, it is used only in steep-sloped or small tea gardens where machines cannot be operated. It is said to be about ten times more efficient than hand-picking, but skilled technique is required.

Portable harvester

As shown in the photo, two people support a harvester between tea rows and walk along, trimming half of the tea bush on each side. After one pass, the trimmed tea row takes on a rounded, mound-like shape. Since the machine trims half-circles at a time, it can harvest laterally extending new shoots as well, increasing yield. This is the most commonly used harvesting method for scissor-harvested tencha in Uji.

Ride-on harvester

A large, clipper-like machine that a person rides and operates to cut new buds and young leaves. Among the tea farmers we work with, this harvesting method is used in regions with large tea fields such as Kagoshima, Mie, and some parts of northern Kyoto.

Recently, smaller machines and those capable of safely harvesting on slopes without tipping have been developed, and their use in small or sloped tea gardens has been increasing. In Uji, however, tea fields are small, and ride-on harvesters are rarely used.

Post-harvest handling

Freshly plucked leaves begin to oxidize and ferment from the cut ends, so to prevent this, they must be steamed within 24 hours. This requires special care for scissor-harvested leaves, as they have more cut surfaces.

If there is a long delay before processing, the leaves are stored in a fresh leaf management unit equipped with cooling and air circulation—called a “pit.” Freshly harvested leaves continue to respire and generate heat, which can cause leaf damage. Therefore, cool air is blown from below to prevent oxidation and fermentation.

Early-, mid-, and late-maturing cultivars

Choosing cultivars suited to climatic conditions, tea garden size, soil environment, and management style is important. For instance, in cooler mountainous regions, late-maturing cultivars are often selected to avoid late frost and for their cold tolerance.

The harvesting season varies depending on location and cultivar. In Uji, early-maturing cultivars are typically harvested from early May.

Representative cultivars suitable for high-quality tencha include:

Early-maturing cultivars: Asahi

Mid-maturing cultivars: Gokō, Ujihikari, Tenmyō, Hōshun

Late-maturing cultivars: Samidori

Harvesting the new buds at their optimal stage is called “tekki-zumi” (timely picking), and it is an essential condition for producing excellent tencha.

For example, if a tea farmer cultivates three cultivars—early-, mid-, and late-maturing—their respective optimal picking periods differ, allowing for easier harvesting at the best timing for each.

If all cultivars were mid-maturing, the harvest period would be concentrated within a short timeframe, making it difficult to complete harvesting in time.

This is why tea farmers deliberately cultivate multiple cultivars—so that they can harvest each at its best moment for producing high-quality tencha.